CHAPTER 19 – The Grand Prix

The Grand Prix in Paris marks the pinnacle of spring festivities with a climactic closure reminiscent of a curtain falling on a pantomime’s last scene. This event, held each second Sunday in June, signifies the season’s end with a burst of social and festive energy, culminating in the much-anticipated race day. The historical context of the Grand Prix dates back to its inception in 1862, under the reign of Napoleon III, created to draw visitors to Paris with a substantial prize jointly funded by the city and the railways—a strategy suggested by major railway companies aiming to emulate the success of the English Derby.

The spectacle of the Grand Prix transcends the race itself, embodying a social phenomenon where Parisians, from the elite to the infamous Rastaquoueres, congregate, blurring the lines of social distinction in the celebratory spirit. This event not only showcases the city’s penchant for grandeur but also highlights Parisians’ inherent joyfulness and their ability to animate the cityscape. Remarkably, this chapter weaves a narrative around Marie Louise Marsy, an actress with a passion for racing, reflecting the varied interests that converge on this grand occasion. Her story, interlinked with the tragic tale of young Lebaudy, adds depth to the tapestry of personalities and events surrounding the Grand Prix.

As the city envelopes itself in festivities, with fashion at its zenith and every available horse pressed into service, the Grand Prix transforms Paris into a tableau of unparalleled vibrancy. The anticipation builds as the race approaches, culminating in a spectacle observed by a diverse audience, including dignitaries and celebrities, all gathered to witness the crowning race. The spectacle of President Faure’s arrival, heralded by the colorful Garde Républicains, marks the commencement of the races, building up to the fervor of the Grand Prix itself.

Post-race, the city spontaneously erupts into celebration, with the populace indulging in revelry that spills into the streets and public spaces, capturing the ephemeral joy that characterizes Parisian social life. As the festivities wane, the departure of the aristocracy and the affluent marks a transitional period for Paris, a withdrawal into a quieter, more introspective phase that contrasts sharply with the preceding exuberance.

Interestingly, after the Grand Prix, Paris shifts from a bustling metropolis to a serene haven, ideal for genuine aficionados of the city’s charm. This period allows for intimate encounters with the city’s quieter side, offering a respite for those who prefer Paris’s less ostentatious beauties. Despite the exodus of international visitors, notably Americans heading towards London for other grand events, Paris in the aftermath of the Grand Prix unveils a unique allure, presenting an opportune moment for explorations unencumbered by the usual crowds.

This chapter not only captures the essence of the Grand Prix as an event but also portrays Paris in a cycle of transformation—from the height of its societal engagements back to a placid retreat, ready to rejuvenate and allure anew. Through vivid descriptions and interlaced narratives, it encapsulates the enduring charm of Paris, a city that thrives on opulence yet retains its beauty in moments of tranquility.