CHAPTER 17 – Royalty At Play

Chapter 17 of “Worldly Ways and Byways” details the intriguing spectacle of European royalty indulging in their leisure time away from the burdens of court life. The author observes with a mix of amusement and insight as monarchs, empresses, and heirs apparent escape their formal duties to embrace the casual, luxurious lifestyle found between Cannes and Mentone. These royal figures, supposedly in pursuit of anonymity and relaxation, converge upon the Riviera, drawn by its sun-soaked shores and societal freedoms. Their choice of this republican setting underscores a collective desire to steer clear of political implications while luxuriating in a space where their royal statuses afford them both special treatment and the chance to blend into the affluent society.

The narrative touches on historical incidents and transformations that have contributed to the Riviera’s status as a royal playground. From Victor Emmanuel II’s tempestuous relinquishment of Savoy and Nice to France, to the Russian Empress’s winter stay in a bid to improve her son’s health, these anecdotes highlight how the region’s appeal to royalty is steeped in a rich, albeit controversial, history.

The author vividly describes encounters with royalty at play, from seeing the Queen of England in a donkey-chair to witnessing the Prince of Wales revel in the nightlife of Monte Carlo. These narratives are peppered with wry observations on the aging process of the Prince of Wales and musings on the potential monotony of royal life, contrasted against their pursuit of pleasure and avoidance of duty.

Royal spectators, including the distinguished visitors to the Cannes yacht races and the Battle of Flowers, are presented as part of a lively, albeit superficial, social scene that belies the deeper issues of privilege, duty, and the sustainability of monarchies. The suggestion that royals might need to find more productive occupations than endless amusement is culminated in the example of the Prince of Monaco, who is posited as an exemplar of a royal adapting to modern expectations by engaging in the hospitality business. Through these observations, the chapter articulates a nuanced critique of royal leisure and the potential future of monarchies in a rapidly changing world, encouraging a reflection on the role of royalty in contemporary society.