Chapter VI -The Compleat Angler

In Chapter VI of “The Compleat Angler,” Piscator delves into the nature and virtues of the Umber or Grayling, exploring the species’ comparison, valuation, and peculiarities with a blend of historical references and personal commentary. He starts by addressing a common debate on whether Umber and Grayling are distinct species, akin to the difference between herring and pilchard. Citing Aldrovandus, he aligns them with trout, a classification supported by their esteemed status in various parts of Europe. In Switzerland, as Gesner notes, and Italy, the Grayling is considered a premium fish, especially prized during May. The French admiration for this fish extends to myth, attributing to it a diet of gold, evidenced by grains found in some fishes caught in the river Loire.

Piscator entertains the charming notion that aromatic herbs like water thyme could influence the fish’s scent, a phenomenon paralleled in the violet-like fragrance of freshly caught smelts. This observation segues into a broader reflection on the aesthetic and medicinal value assigned to clear stream fishes like the Grayling and trout by writers and philosophers of the past. He specifically mentions the beneficial properties of grayling fat mixed with honey for eye conditions, as celebrated by Gesner.

The fish’s name, “Umber,” is attributed by Salvian to its rapid, almost ghostly swimming capabilities, evoking its elusive nature. Piscator reserves a special affection for the taste and smell of the Umber, echoing St. Ambrose’s reverence by calling it the “flower-fish,” a term that encapsulates its exalted status among fishes. The chapter, rich with ecclesiastical and naturalist references, underscores the Grayling not only as a subject of culinary delight but also as a creature of cultural and medicinal significance, weaving together historical anecdotes, folk beliefs, and personal insights to celebrate its place in the natural world.